Plakias: Serenity Between Sea and Mountains

Plakias
'Crete 013' - Crete
'Crete 013' - Attribution: Pat Neary

Plakias is a peaceful seaside haven sheltered by rugged cliffs along the Libyan Sea. It’s an ideal spot to unwind, explore scenic walking trails, and experience the laid-back charm of southern Crete.

Tucked away on the south coast of Rethymno, Plakias is a laid-back village that feels like a slice of paradise hidden between the mountains and the Libyan Sea. The name Plakias means “flat” in Greek, yet the scenery is anything but, you arrive via winding roads that cut through dramatic gorges (Kotsifos and Kourtaliotiko) before the view opens to a crescent-shaped bay. The main beach stretches for 1.3 kilometres, an expanse of golden sand lapped by crystal-clear water. On one end, sheer cliffs glow at dusk, and you might feel the warm Libyan breeze that sometimes gusts through (locals joke it's the gorges acting as wind tunnels). Plakias was once a tiny fishing hamlet, as recently as the 1960s only a handful of fishermen lived here, but today it's a peaceful resort that has kept its soul. You'll still see boats gently bobbing in the small harbour and hear the clinking of glasses at beachfront tavernas each evening as travellers and locals gather to toast the sunset. Plakias's charm lies in its unhurried vibe, days here are about sunbathing, snorkelling in secluded coves, and hiking to nearby villages, then enjoying fresh-caught fish under the stars. It's the perfect getaway for those who love the sea and seek a slower pace of life.

Plakias Through the Seasons

One of Plakias's delights is that it's enjoyable almost year-round. Summer (June–August) brings hot, sunny weather ideal for swimming and water sports. The main beach is dotted with umbrellas and sunbeds in peak season, yet never feels as overrun as Crete's more famous beaches. Afternoons can get windy, on some days a sudden gust might even send hats flying (a quirk of the local geography travellers quickly learn to laugh about).

In autumn (September–October), the sea remains warm like a bath, while the crowds thin out. This is a fantastic time for a relaxed swim at Plakias or nearby Preveli Palm Beach and Damnoni beaches, and for watching spectacular sunsets that set the sky aflame.

Winter in Plakias is quiet and mild. Only a few accommodations stay open, and you might share the entire beach with just a fisherman or two. The sea is cooler and winds can be strong, but the ambience is wonderfully tranquil. Plakias in winter is a retreat for solitude-seekers or those writing their novel by the sea.

Spring (April–May) paints the surrounding hillsides green and wildflowers bloom along the trails. The weather is mild, perfect for hikes through the gorges or excursions to see the cascading waterfalls in Kourtaliotiko Gorge. Many hotels and tavernas reopen by Easter, and you'll find the village pleasantly lively but not crowded, an ideal season if you enjoy nature.

Importantly, even in the off-season you can count on over 300 days of Cretan sunshine a year, so chances are you'll enjoy some bright, pleasant days whenever you visit.

Where to Stay in Plakias

Despite its small size, Plakias offers a range of accommodation, from well-known hotels to family-run gems that capture the village's easygoing spirit. Here are a few top picks:

  • Kalypso Cretan Village Resort & Spa – A famous hotel perched on a clifftop cove just outside Plakias, it offers resort-style amenities (pools, spa) and a dramatic setting above the sea. Great for travellers who want a full-service resort experience while still being close to nature.
  • Alianthos Garden – A beloved boutique hotel right across from Plakias Beach, known for its warm hospitality. Rooms are modern and comfortable, there's a pool for windy days, and the in-house restaurant serves Cretan specialties. Many repeat visitors call this their Plakias "home away from home."
  • Mirthios-Hill Apartments – Nestled in the scenic village of Mirthios, just above Plakias, these apartments provide panoramic views of the Libyan Sea. Each unit features amenities such as air conditioning, a fully equipped kitchen, and a private terrace or balcony. Guests can immerse themselves in the tranquil village atmosphere, with local tavernas nearby, while the beaches of Plakias are only a short drive away.

Plakias Tip:

If you're visiting in high summer, book accommodation early, the best places fill up fast with repeat visitors who fell in love with Plakias long ago. In shoulder season, you can be more spontaneous and might even snag a bargain on a seafront studio.

Getting to Plakias

Reaching Plakias is an adventure in itself. The village lies about 35–40 km south of Rethymno town, and the journey takes you through stunning landscapes. By car is the most convenient way, you'll wind through either the Kotsifos Gorge or the Kourtaliotiko Gorge to get here (both routes are incredibly scenic, with towering canyon walls). From Rethymno, it's roughly a 45-minute drive. If coming from further afield, you can drive from Chania (about 1.5 hours) or Heraklion (about 2 hours). Car rental is recommended if you plan to explore the surrounding beaches and mountain villages at your own pace.

By bus: Crete's KTEL buses serve Plakias a few times a day from Rethymno. The trip takes around 1 hour 15 minutes. Buses are comfortable and affordable, just check the latest timetable, especially outside of summer when services are less frequent. In Rethymno, the bus departs from the main KTEL station. If you're flying into Crete without a car, you can catch a bus from Heraklion Airport to Rethymno, then connect onward to Plakias.

By taxi: Taxis from Rethymno to Plakias cost more but can be convenient if you're in a small group or have heavy luggage, but always agree on the fare beforehand. Once in Plakias, the village is compact enough to explore on foot. To visit nearby attractions like Preveli Palm Beach or Spili village, you can rent a scooter or use local tour minibuses. However you arrive, the moment you emerge from the gorge road and see Plakias's turquoise bay sparkling below, you'll know your journey was worth it.

Being in the Rethymno Prefecture, Plakias can be a base to explore other treasures of the region. Don't miss a day trip to Rethymno's Old Town (with its Venetian Fortezza and charming alleys), or a hike in the surrounding foothills of Mount Kouroupa. (See our full guide on Rethymno Region for more insights.)

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Hotels and apartments in Plakias