Balos Lagoon & Gramvousa Island

Overview:

High on a cliff overlooking Balos Lagoon, you’re greeted by a panorama so stunning it hardly seems real: below lies a shimmering palette of turquoise and aquamarine waters, encircling a wide sandbar that glows white and pink, while beyond that curves the wild Gramvousa Peninsula and the open sea. Balos Beach, on Crete’s northwestern tip, is often hailed as one of the island’s ultimate paradises – a place where you can float in warm shallow pools of crystal-clear water, feeling like you’ve found a secret tropical cove. Its remote location and dramatic setting only add to the allure. The lagoon sits beneath rugged hills and the island of Gramvousa, crowned with an old fortress. Visiting Balos is an adventure that might have you bouncing down a dirt road or cruising on a boat, but it’s unquestionably worth the effort. If Elafonisi is Crete’s idyllic secret, Balos is its dramatic showstopper.

The Beauty of Balos

What makes Balos so special? It’s the contrast of elements. The water in the lagoon is shallow and warm, reflecting hues from neon teal to emerald in patches. The sand is powdery white with slight pinkish tones in places (like Elafonisi, it has bits of crushed shells that lend a blush in certain light). Together, they create almost Caribbean-style colors – a striking sight against the more rugged backdrop of western Crete. Parts of the lagoon are only ankle or knee deep, so you can literally wade far out, or just sit blissfully in the water. Small kids can safely play in these natural pools. Step a bit further, and you meet the deeper blue of the sea beyond the sandbar, where you can swim properly. On one side of the lagoon rises the hilly Gramvousa peninsula, and on the other, across a narrow channel, is Imeri Gramvousa – the larger of the two Gramvousa islets – with its rocky cliffs and a Venetian fortress on top. The whole scene, especially when viewed from the hillside above, is one of the most photographed in Crete (don’t forget your camera – the viewpoint as you approach Balos is breathtaking).

'Picture 257' - Attribution: Paul-Fogg

Despite its raw beauty, Balos remains a relatively untouched beach with limited facilities. There is a basic shack on the beach in high season selling cold drinks and snacks, and usually some sunbeds and umbrellas available on a small section of the sand. But much of the lagoon area is wild and untamed – you’ll share space with wild goats sauntering down for a sip of saltwater and tiny sandpiper birds skittering at the water’s edge. This is part of the charm: Balos feels like a slice of nature’s perfection.

How to Get to Balos

Balos can be accessed in two main ways – by sea or by land, each offering a different experience:

Boat Trip:

Perhaps the most popular way is to take a boat from the port of Kissamos (also known as Kastelli) to Balos/Gramvousa. In summer, daily excursion boats depart in the morning, making a circuit: first stopping at Gramvousa Island, then continuing to Balos Beach for a few hours of swimming. The boat journey is about an hour and offers lovely views of the coastline (plus the chance to relax with a drink from the onboard café). An advantage of the boat is you also get to visit Gramvousa Island, climbing up to the Venetian fort there if you wish. It’s also easier – no driving on rough roads. The downside is you arrive with a crowd, and the stay (typically ~3 hours at Balos) is limited by the boat schedule. Note: In peak season, consider buying boat tickets in advance or arriving early to secure a spot, as it’s a very popular excursion.

'Balos/Gramvousa cruise' - Attribution: TimOve

Driving:

Adventurous travellers often choose to drive to Balos. Be prepared: the last 8 kilometers from the village of Kaliviani to the Balos parking area is a rough dirt road along the Gramvousa peninsula ridge. It’s a bumpy ride, dusty and with some steep drop-offs (drive slowly and cautiously; a 4x4 is helpful but standard cars can manage with care). There is an entrance fee per car (a few euros) for road maintenance and environmental preservation. At the end of the track, you’ll park on the cliff top. From there, it’s about a 20–30 minute hike down a rocky footpath to the lagoon. The hike down is absolutely stunning, as that famous panoramic view unfolds beneath you – many people stop for photos at the bluff that overlooks Balos and Gramvousa. Wear sturdy sandals or shoes (not flip-flops) for this hike, as the path is uneven. Keep in mind the hike back up in the afternoon heat can be tiring (allow maybe 40 minutes to climb back), but you can reward yourself with a drink from a small cantina by the parking lot. Driving has the benefit that you can arrive earlier or later than the boats (thus enjoying Balos with fewer people around) and stay as long as you like during daylight.

'The walk down to Balos starts here' - Attribution: Alberto Perdomo

Gramvousa: The Pirate Island

A visit to Balos often pairs with Gramvousa Island, especially if you take the boat. Gramvousa actually refers to two uninhabited islets – Imeri (Tame) Gramvousa and Agria (Wild) Gramvousa. The larger, Imeri Gramvousa, is the one where boats dock. This rocky island has an intriguing history: on its summit, 137 meters above the sea, lie the ruins of a 16th-century Venetian fortress. The Venetians built it as a strategic stronghold against Ottoman invasion, and it was so impregnable that even after Crete fell to the Ottomans, Gramvousa’s fort held out. In the 1820s during Greece’s War of Independence, rebels seized the fort and used Gramvousa as a base – cut off from the rest of Crete, some turned to piracy to survive, giving Gramvousa a reputation as a pirate island. Today, what remains are crumbling stone walls with cannons rusting in place, but the steep hike up (about 15-20 minutes on a stepped path) is rewarded with incredible views. From the top, you gaze down at Balos’s unbelievable colors, see the outline of Crete’s coast, and feel the strong winds of freedom that those revolutionaries must have felt. If hiking up isn’t your thing, you can also just enjoy Gramvousa’s beach by the pier – there’s a small pretty cove perfect for swimming, complete with the wreck of an old rusty ship sticking out of the water nearby (a coastal freighter that sank in the 1960s, now an atmospheric snorkel spot!). Whether or not you climb to the castle, Gramvousa adds a dash of adventure and historical wonder to your Balos excursion.

'Gramvousa Peninsula' - Attribution: Miguel Virkkunen Carvalho

Bring Supplies:

On Balos itself, amenities are minimal. Bring plenty of water (especially if hiking in), sunscreen, a hat, and perhaps picnic food. There is shade under a few umbrellas if you rent them, otherwise not much – consider bringing a beach umbrella if you’re driving in and plan to spend all day. Also, no fresh water showers, so a bottle of water to rinse off salt might be handy if that bothers you.

Footwear:

If arriving by boat, flip-flops are fine for the beach, but if you plan to hike Gramvousa’s fort or if you’re coming by car and walking down the path, sturdy shoes or good sandals are important. The rocks are sharp volcanic types and can cut feet easily.

'Balos/Gramvousa cruise' - Attribution: TimOve

Respect the Environment:

Balos’s ecosystem is fragile too. You might notice parts of the dunes cordoned off to protect nesting birds. Avoid trampling vegetation and do not disturb any wildlife. Also, as always, take all garbage with you – no bins are on the beach, and litter would mar this paradise. Help keep Balos clean and pristine.

'Short walk they said.. #Balos #lagoon #hiking #Crete Well worth it they said.. #Greece #visitGreece #mysteriousgreece #vscoart_greece #vintage_greece #ig_greece #igers_greece #wu_greece #team_greece #loves_greece #ig_greekshots #greecetravel #super_greece' - Attribution: Gavriil Papadiotis [GavriiLux]

Wind and Weather:

Balos is often slightly windy (the position of the lagoon means a breeze can funnel through). This is pleasant in summer heat, but if you go in shoulder seasons (May or September), a windy day can make it feel a bit cool after long swims. Check the weather; if very strong winds are forecast, boat schedules might even adjust. Generally, Balos’s shallow waters stay warm through early fall.

'Crete' - Attribution: enricod

Timing:

If you can manage, go early or late to savour Balos without the crowds. Many who’ve done so call it a near-spiritual experience. Also, weekdays might be a touch less busy than weekends.

Where to Stay for Balos

Balos is often done as a day trip from larger towns, but if you want to stay closer to beat the crowds, consider basing yourself in Kissamos (Kastelli) or the surrounding villages. Kissamos is a small coastal town about 17 km from Balos (to the start of the dirt road) with several hotels, tavernas, and all basic services. From Kissamos you can also easily catch the Balos boat. A nice seafront hotel there is Nautilus Bay or Hotel Aphrodite Beach, which offer convenience and sea views.

For an even closer stay, the tiny village of Kaliviani lies right at the start of the Balos track. Here, places like Balos Beach Hotel and Kaliviani Traditional Hotel provide comfortable rooms overlooking Kissamos Bay – you’ll be at the nearest civilized point to Balos. Waking up in Kaliviani, you can drive out to the lagoon at dawn before anyone else. Some accommodations in this area even arrange jeep transfers to Balos if you prefer not to drive your own car on the rough road.

Another option is staying on the Gramvousa peninsula itself at accommodations such as Falasarna Villas or cottages around Platanos village, which are also in proximity. In the broader Kissamos region, you’ll mostly find family-run hotels or apartments – expect clean, simple comforts rather than large resorts. This rural corner of Crete is quiet at night, with starry skies and the sound of distant goat bells. It makes a nice counterpoint if you’ve spent time in busier hubs like Chania Old Town.

Wherever you stay, the key is to arrive at Balos early, so if you can cut down transit time in the morning, you’ll reap the reward of having that paradisiacal lagoon almost to yourself for a little while. And after a full day of sun and sea, nothing beats returning to a nearby tavern for dinner – perhaps try the local specialty tsiambousi (chickpea stew) or simply super-fresh grilled fish – recounting the day’s views and adventures.