Hippie Vibes and Ancient Echoes
The sun is low over Matala Bay, casting a golden glow on the sheer cliffs pocked with eerie dark holes. Those holes are the famous Matala caves, carved into the sandstone thousands of years ago, later home to 1960s flower children, and now silently overlooking a beach where modern backpackers and families alike splash in the clear water. As I walk along Matala's main path—a funky lane of shops and tavernas painted with colorful murals and peace symbols—I can almost feel the ghosts of the hippies that once converged here singing Give Peace a Chance. The whole village of Matala exudes a laid-back, slightly bohemian atmosphere that is distinctly different from anywhere else in Crete. It's as if a little piece of Woodstock got transplanted to this ancient shore.
Beach Bliss with a Side of History
Matala's beach itself is a lovely crescent of coarse golden sand about 300 metres long, framed by the dramatic cliff to the north (full of caves) and a headland to the south. The Libyan Sea here is deep blue and usually calm, perfect for swimming. I kick off my sandals and head for the water; it's refreshing but not cold, with just enough gentle waves to hear a soothing crash on the shore. If you snorkel along the cliff edges, you might spot small fish and interesting rock formations underwater. But the real allure is above water—the caves of Matala that beckon climbers and explorers. These man-made caves were originally tombs, likely from the late Neolithic to Roman times. Centuries later, their empty chambers were irresistible to young drifters seeking a free place to live by the sea. In the late 1960s, Matala became an international hippie enclave. Legend (and local memory) says that hippie icons like Joni Mitchell and Cat Stevens spent time living in the caves. Joni even memorialised Matala in her song “Carey” – singing about the night in a cave with a red sun setting. As a local, I've heard amusing stories from older villagers about those days: how the hippies would paint flowers everywhere, sell crafts to get by, and have impromptu jam sessions on the beach under the moonlight.
'Matala, Crete' - Attribution: Andy MontgomeryProtected Caves and Ancient Stories
Today, the caves are a protected archaeological site. During daylight hours, you can pay a small fee to climb up and wander inside them (they close before sunset for safety and preservation). I've gone up—mind you, you need to be steady on your feet, as the path is a bit steep and the rocks can be slippery with sand. But standing inside a cave, you can see blackened walls from ancient fires and graffiti from more recent decades. One roomy cave has a “window” opening that frames the bay like a picture postcard; sitting there, I imagine being a 20-something in 1971, strumming a guitar and feeling completely free. It's a little spooky yet exhilarating. If those cave walls could talk, they'd have tales of Roman burials and psychedelic parties alike!
'Matala, Crete' - Attribution: Andy MontgomeryVillage Charm
Matala village is tiny – just a few streets really – but it's bursting with personality. After a sunset swim, I stroll to one of the beachside tavernas. The vibe is ultra-casual: chairs on the sand, tie-dye sarongs fluttering for sale next door, Bob Dylan tunes playing softly in the background. One taverna, Hakuna Matata, leans fully into the hippie theme, with rainbow-coloured decor and a menu including vegetarian options which is a bit rare in rural Crete (I love their stuffed peppers and zucchini, and a cold Mythos beer here goes down a treat). Another spot, Giannis Matala, is more traditional but serves incredibly fresh fish – the owner will literally show you the catch of the day. Dining here, feet in the sand, caves glowing in floodlights across the bay, is magical.
'Violet' - Attribution: Rémi MarchandEvening Vibes and Local Life
As darkness falls, Matala doesn't shut down – it livens up in a mellow way. There's often live music at one of the bars – think acoustic guitar or maybe a small bouzouki group playing a mix of Cretan folk and 70s rock classics. People wander with smiles, maybe a bit of raki in their system, browsing stalls selling shell jewellery, tie-dye shirts, and handmade soaps. One iconic mural on the main street proclaims: “Today is Life, Tomorrow never comes”, said to be a slogan from the hippie era and now Matala's unofficial motto. It captures the carpe diem spirit that still lingers here.
Beyond the Beach
The area around Matala offers more to explore if you have time. A short hike over the hill (south end of Matala) leads to Red Beach (Kokkini Ammos), named for its reddish sands. It's an unofficial nudist-friendly beach and has remained fairly offbeat – no facilities, just raw beauty and usually a handful of chilled-out visitors. The hike is about 25-30 minutes on a rocky path (definitely wear sneakers), but reaching that secluded cove feels like finding treasure. I recall one time arriving at Red Beach to find a small group drumming and dancing as the sun set – in true Matala spirit.
Also nearby, driving 15 minutes, you can visit Kommos Beach, which is larger and backed by dunes (also partly nudist in sections) and has interesting Minoan ruins of an ancient port. Or for a dose of culture, the ruins of Phaistos Palace – the second-largest Minoan palace after Knossos Minoan Palace – are about a 20-minute drive inland. It's set on a scenic hill with views of the Messara Plain; walking among its millennia-old ruins is a great complement to lounging on Matala's beach, reminding you that this land has been significant long before the first hippie van rolled in.
Mythological Matala
I'd be remiss not to mention that Matala pops up in Greek mythology too. One legend says that Zeus, disguised as a bull, swam to Matala's shore carrying the kidnapped Phoenician princess Europa on his back. There, he transformed into an eagle and consummated their union, resulting in the birth of King Minos (the very king associated with Knossos Minoan Palace). So Matala's seen divine love and counterculture love all in one place! Standing on the beach, looking at the same horizon where Zeus the bull emerged from the waves, I feel a whimsical connection to these layered tales.
Practical Tips
Matala is about 70 km (1.5 hours drive) southwest of Heraklion City. It's well signposted and the drive takes you through fertile plains and small villages. It's quite popular in summer, especially during the annual Matala Beach Festival (usually in June), when thousands come for free concerts right on the beach, celebrating the hippie legacy with music and art. If you come during the festival, expect crowds, a fun scene, but book accommodation well ahead. Usually Matala has a range of simple pensions, studios, and a couple of small hotels. A famous budget option is Matala Valley Campground just outside the village, which still attracts a bohemian mix – you might even sleep in a tepee or under an olive tree if you want.
The beach has sunbeds and umbrellas for rent on one half, and free space on the other. There are fresh-water showers and changing booths by the tavernas. The midday sun reflecting off the light cliff and sand can be intense – have sunscreen and maybe take a break in the shade at noon (perfect time for a leisurely Greek lunch). The caves area is roped off after sunset, and camping in the caves is forbidden now (a far cry from the open policy in the 60s). But you can stay till closing and then perhaps lay on the open beach for some stargazing – the night sky over Matala is pretty clear, and with a little imagination, you could almost see Apollo's chariot or a magic carpet flying by.
Embracing the Matala Mood
In Matala, I always slow down and feel. Feel the ancient history under my feet, feel the ‘60s nostalgia in the art around me, feel the sun and sea that make it all glow. It's a place where I've struck up conversations with strangers that turned into friends over a bottle of raki under the stars. There's an openness here – maybe it's all the free spirit energy left in the air. If Crete had chakras, Matala would definitely be the heart chakra, open and warm. As I leave the beach one evening, an old man is sitting by his doorstep playing a lyra (Cretan fiddle). The melody is haunting and beautiful. A group of youngsters with guitars joins from across the way, and soon “House of the Rising Sun” has a lyra accompaniment – a spontaneous jam bridging generations. That's Matala: eclectic, welcoming, and always a bit surprising. When you visit, drop your guard, kick off your shoes, and let Matala's free spirit embrace you. Today is life.
'Matala_06_2011_83' - Attribution: slavikosWhere to Stay in Matala
Fragiskos Hotel – A comfortable 3-star hotel just a 2-minute walk from the beach. It's one of Matala's larger accommodations, with a pool (great for a dip when the beach is too hot or after sunset). The rooms are straightforward, some with views toward the sea or the surrounding hills. The real plus is its location and convenience: you're close to everything yet just tucked enough away to not hear the late-night revelry. They offer a nice breakfast buffet that you can enjoy outdoors. I find Fragiskos to be friendly and easy – the staff will happily tell you about the hidden spots around or chat about Matala's history.
Matala Bay Hotel & Apartments – Located at the entrance of the village, Matala Bay is a family-run hotel that offers a range from simple rooms to larger family apartments. It's modernised, with air conditioning and Wi-Fi, and has a decent on-site restaurant if you're too relaxed to wander out. What I like here is the blend of hotel service with local touch – the owners often mingle with guests at the bar, and there's a genuine hospitable vibe. It's about a 5-minute walk to the beach, meaning it's quieter at night. Plus, you can easily park here (parking in Matala's tiny centre can be tricky in peak season).
Valley Village – Just slightly out of the main Matala bustle (about 800m from the beach, they offer a free shuttle service), Valley Village is a little oasis with bungalow-style rooms amidst gardens. If you're looking for a calmer setting or travelling with family, this is a great pick. Rooms are spacious and many have been recently updated. There's a large pool and plenty of palm trees and greenery on the grounds that create a resort-like feel. The on-site restaurant often does BBQ nights. The semi-seclusion means you can retreat from Matala's lively centre at will – enjoying the best of both worlds. Waking up here to birds chirping and then taking a morning stroll to Matala with the sun just rising is a lovely experience I've cherished.
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