Driving in Crete

Exploring Crete by car is one of the best ways to discover its diverse landscapes—from rugged mountains and deep gorges to secluded beaches and quaint villages. However, driving in Crete can be a unique experience, with local road customs, varying road conditions, and some quirks that visitors should know. This guide will equip you with practical advice on road conditions, local driving customs, parking, safety, and tips for memorable road trips around Crete.

Road Conditions & Infrastructure

Crete's road network consists of a mix of modern highways, winding rural roads, and everything in between:

BOAK (Northern Highway)

The main artery is the E75 highway (also called VOAK/BOAK for “Northern Axis of Crete”), running roughly 300 km along the north coast from Kissamos (west of Chania) to Sitia (east). It's mostly one lane each direction with a hard shoulder often used as a slow lane. Some sections around Heraklion and east of Chania are dual-carriageway with median separation, but many stretches are just an undivided road with oncoming traffic. The official speed limit is 90 km/h (lower near towns). Be cautious: local drivers often speed and overtake even around bends. The highway quality is generally good asphalt, but watch for sudden narrowing, occasional potholes, and at night, limited lighting outside urban areas. Also, motorbikes zooming by and trucks moving slowly.

'Road in the mountains leading to the Mediterranean Sea in Crete, Greece, June 2008' - Attribution: sergei.gussev

Rural & Mountain Roads

Off the highway, roads connecting villages and points of interest vary. Many are paved but can be narrow and winding with sharp turns, especially in the mountains (e.g. road through the White Mountains to Sfakia or the Lasithi Plateau roads). Some mountain roads have steep drop-offs and minimal guardrails, so drive slowly and honk on blind corners. Road surfaces can be uneven or have gravel sections on the edges. Sheep or goats on the road are common in rural areas – be ready to slow down for animal crossings especially in mornings/evenings.

'Road in the mountains against clear blue sky in Crete, Greece, June 2008' - Attribution: sergei.gussev

Coastal Roads

Scenic but also curvy. For instance, the road from Heraklion to Matala is winding through hills; Chania to Sougia goes through gorges. Typically paved and fine for normal cars, just allow extra time due to curves.

'Main road to Herakleion' - Attribution: oscar alexander

Unpaved Roads

Some attractions (certain beaches, archaeological sites) are accessed by dirt roads. Example: the last 8 km to Balos Beach is a rough gravel track, where rental companies often forbid their cars (and if you do, go very slowly to avoid damage). Similarly, parts of the road to Seitan Limania beach or Marmara beach might be dirt. If you plan to do off-asphalt driving, consider renting a sturdier car or even a 4x4. But note many rental contracts exclude damage on unpaved roads.

Signs: Road signs are in Greek and often transliterated English. E.g., Χανιά and "Chania". They usually appear with Greek first, then English below. Some local signs in villages may be only in Greek (use a map or GPS to double-check if needed). Distances are in kilometres. Highways have green background signs, smaller roads blue or white.

Navigation: It's wise to have a GPS or navigation app (Google Maps works well on main routes, but note it might sometimes suggest very minor roads as shortcuts – cross-check if unsure, or set to "major roads"). Alternatively, pick up a good map (Road Editions or Anavasi maps of Crete are reliable).

Fuel: Petrol stations are plentiful along the north highway and in towns. In more remote areas (like between Heraklion and Chora Sfakion or in far east), make sure to fill up when you can. Fuel is sold per litre; current prices ~€1.8/L (can vary). Many stations are full-service (an attendant fills for you). Most take credit cards, but have cash in case a machine is down. Stations in rural villages might close by 9pm, but on the main highway some are 24h (especially around Heraklion).

Road improvements: Crete is gradually upgrading some roads. Be prepared for occasional road work zones with lowered speed and possible rough patches. For instance, there's ongoing work to turn parts of the BOAK into 4-lane – you might encounter lane shifts or construction vehicles, especially around Hersonissos and Neapoli in east or near Chania in west.

Local Driving Customs

Cretan drivers can be both courteous and, at times, a bit daring. Key things to know:

• Shoulder Driving: A very notable custom: On the main highway, slower drivers are expected to drive on the hard shoulder (partially or fully) to let faster vehicles overtake. You will see cars straddling the line, effectively making an unofficial "two lanes" so others can pass even with oncoming traffic. As a visitor, you should do the same when safe: keep to the right side (half on shoulder) if someone behind is coming fast. Don’t be alarmed; it’s common practice and you won’t be fined for briefly using the shoulder. However, always watch for any debris or parked vehicles on the shoulder.
• Overtaking: Locals sometimes overtake on seemingly risky spots (blind curves or hills). Do not follow suit if you're not comfortable; let them pass, but you yourself overtake only when you have clear visibility and a dotted center line. It’s okay to be patient. If someone is tailgating you wanting to pass, use the shoulder practice above and allow them. They might flash lights to indicate their desire to pass.
• Speed & Aggressiveness: Many Cretan drivers do speed, especially younger ones on motorbikes or in sporty cars. That said, they are also used to the road conditions. As a tourist, it's best to drive defensively – assume a fast car might appear around that bend half in your lane overtaking something, so keep to your side and moderate speed.
• Horn Usage: People may honk lightly when going around very tight bends on one-lane mountain roads to signal their presence to unseen oncoming traffic. You can do the same. A quick "beep beep" is not an angry honk but a cautionary one. Also, horns are sometimes used to greet friends or alert goats.
• Traffic Lights & Signs: In cities, traffic lights are obeyed fairly well. Some locals might run an "orange" light (just turned red), but generally respect red lights. Stop signs in small intersections... occasionally locals do a "rolling stop" if they know the junction well and see no one. As a visitor, always stop fully or at least slow significantly to ensure no cross traffic – don’t assume others will yield.
• Priority: Generally, on an unsigned intersection, the rule "priority from the right" applies. But on main roads, side roads often have stop/yield lines. If unsure, slow down. Roundabouts in Crete: usually, incoming traffic yields to vehicles already in the roundabout (opposite of UK). Some roundabouts have signage clarifying. But often locals are confused too since this is a newer concept in Greece. I’ve seen both behaviours. Best to approach slowly and establish eye contact/gestures with drivers as needed.
• Seat Belts & Helmets: Legally required to wear seat belts in cars (front and back). Many locals used to not belt up in back but law is law. Police sometimes do road checks and can fine if belts are not used or if on phone, etc. Motorbike riders by law must wear helmets – but you will sadly see many not doing so, especially young locals in summer. It's risky. If you rent a scooter or quad, please wear a helmet (you may also face fines if caught without).
• Drinking and Driving: Greece has a strict limit (0.05% BAC). Police do conduct breathalyzer checks particularly around holidays or tourist resort areas late at night. It's best to not drink and drive at all. Also note: Crete's roads at night through villages can be tricky, plus animals might wander in darkness. If you party, have a designated driver or taxi.
• Police and Rules: Traffic police on highways use speed radar occasionally on the BOAK. They sometimes hide behind an overpass. Fines for speeding can be heavy and tickets for foreigners must usually be paid on the spot or at a station before leaving the country. So abide by speed limits (90 km/h highway, 50 km/h towns unless posted otherwise). Police also enforce no passing on double lines, etc.
• That said, you'll probably notice a rather relaxed enforcement vibe in much of Crete except on the highway. But don't push it; just because locals might do 110 km/h in an 80 zone doesn't mean you won't be the unlucky one pulled over.
• If you get stopped, remain calm and polite; likely the officer will be amicable if you were only slightly in the wrong and may let you off with a warning, especially if they see you're a tourist struggling with a sign, etc. But not guaranteed.
• Navigating Towns: Old towns like Chania, Rethymno, and Heraklion center have many one-way narrow streets. Pay attention to one-way signs (a white dash on a blue background means "no entry this way"). Google Maps sometimes misguides in maze-like areas. If you accidentally enter a pedestrian or wrong-way street, carefully reverse or find the nearest exit without panic (you won't be the first).
• Locals double park with hazard lights blinking often to run quick errands – you'll see this in towns. If a car is blocking and no driver, a gentle tap of the horn can summon them from a nearby shop typically.
• Rural Courtesy: If driving in small villages, locals often wave or nod to passing cars (especially if no one else is around). It’s nice to nod/wave back. If you stop to ask for directions, they may even lead you partway to ensure you get it right – that's happened to me.
• On really narrow village lanes, sometimes you must back up to let another car pass if there's no room. Whoever has the easier backup (e.g., near a pull-out) usually yields. Often done with a friendly wave of thanks.
• Animals: Already mentioned goats/sheep. Also, stray dogs or cats might run across roads, particularly near villages. Drive cautiously where houses line the road. At night, I nearly bumped into a large dog sleeping on warm asphalt on a quiet road – did not see it until the last second. Use high beams on dark stretches and be ready to slow if those reflective eyes appear.
• Weather: In summer, weather is rarely an issue (no rain for months in many areas). But in the off-season, heavy rain can cause flash floods or rockfalls on mountain roads. If it’s raining, slow down significantly on curvy roads – they can become slippery (first rain after summer can bring up oil). Winter in Crete: some high mountain roads can get snow (e.g., plateau of Omalos or Lasithi might see snow – roads might close or need chains rarely). Coastal roads may flood in extreme storms.

Parking and Renting

Parking

In cities: Chania and Heraklion have designated paid parking lots near the centre. In Heraklion, there is a big lot by the port and some near Eleftherias square. In Chania, there are lots near the market or along the harbour road (Talos Square area). Rates are around €2 per hour or daily between €5–8. Blue lines on the street indicate paid parking zones (where you buy a ticket from a machine or kiosk). White lines are often free (if you are lucky to find any).

In villages and at beaches, there are usually free parking lots or street parking. For example, at Elafonisi you can park on the sand/dirt near the beach for free (though spaces can fill quickly by midday). At popular sights like Knossos, there is a paid lot (around €3–4).

Parking etiquette: Do not park where there is a double yellow line (no stopping), or in front of gates or driveways. People often park half on the pavement so as not to obstruct a narrow road – this is common, but ensure that pedestrians can still pass.

In high season, finding free parking in old towns is tough. Plan to park a few blocks away and walk in. Many hotels in old towns do not have parking and will direct you to the nearest public car park.

If you inadvertently park illegally, you might find a ticket (a pink slip on your windshield) or, in the worst case, the police may remove your licence plates (in Greece, this is done for serious parking violations such as blocking a fire hydrant or bus stop – you then have to pay a fine and retrieve your plates).

For rental cars, to be safe, use off-street parking at night if available (just for security; Crete is generally safe, but petty theft from vehicles can happen, so don't leave valuables visible).

Renting a Car

Rent from reputable firms. There are well-known names (Hertz, Avis, Budget, Eurodollar, AutoUnion, etc.) and many local agencies that often offer competitive prices and reliable service. In summer, book in advance for the best rates (especially if you need an automatic transmission – most local cars are manual).

Insurance: Basic CDW often comes with an excess (around €500–1000). You can often pay extra for zero-excess. There is also an option to buy separate excess insurance beforehand (cheaper third-party insurance). Check if your credit card covers car rental damage; if so, you might decline extra coverage but be prepared for a deposit charge.

Hidden costs: Crete rentals usually include unlimited kilometres and basic insurance. Check for extra driver fees (often free with local companies), young driver surcharges (if under 21 or 23), etc. Petrol is not usually prepaid – you are required to return the car with the same fuel level as provided (commonly full-to-full).

Car type: A small car (compact) is easiest to manoeuvre on narrow roads and is sufficient for 2–4 people. If you are heading up very steep hills with 4 adults plus luggage, consider getting a car with a slightly stronger engine (though most small cars manage fine).

Rent a GPS or use your phone with offline maps (some mountainous areas have dead zones, so an offline map download is handy).

Check the car's condition and note any existing scratches in the contract (take photographs) to avoid disputes on return.

Many local rental agencies do not require a credit card – some even accept cash – but it is recommended to use a card so that you have recourse and proof.

Driving licence: EU licences are valid. If you are from outside the EU, Greek law technically requires an International Driving Permit in addition to your home licence. Some rental agencies might not ask for it, but if you are pulled over, the police might ask for an IDP. It is inexpensive to obtain from AAA or your country's automobile club, so it is better to have it. There have been anecdotes where tourists without an IDP had accidents and were not covered by insurance because they did not have the proper licence.

Automatic cars are less common and cost more. If you can drive a manual, you'll save money and have more availability.

Driving Highlights

Some spectacular drives in Crete include:

• The road through Imbros Gorge down to Chora Sfakion features hairpin turns and amazing views.
• The drive to Balos Beach is a slow, scenic journey over the Gramvousa peninsula if you dare the dirt road.
• The Fourni - Kastelli plateau in Lassithi offers charming windmills and expansive farmland.
• The coastal road from Agios Nikolaos to Sitia passes through pretty coastal villages and mountains.
• The drive from Chania to Omalos (Samaria trailhead) at dawn reveals the sun rising over peaks and low clouds in a magical display.
• The route from Rethymno to Arkadi Monastery meanders through rolling hills of olive groves.
• Even the highway drive from Heraklion to Agios Nikolaos treats you to scenic views of Mirabello Bay, with a lovely vista point near Voulisma.

Safety Tips Recap

• Always wear seat belts and adhere to speed limits or at least follow the flow of traffic.
• Stay vigilant for unexpected obstacles such as potholes, pedestrians, or even stray goats around any corner.
• Avoid driving long distances at night on unfamiliar mountain roads; opt for daylight travel instead.
• If you feel tired after a beach day, consider skipping the twisty mountain drive and either relax or get a driver, as fatigue on twisty roads is risky.
• In the rain, slow down, and in the summer midday heat, ensure your car is ventilated with A/C to remain alert.
• In the event of an accident (though hopefully it never happens), call the police (emergency number 100) and your rental company, and do not move vehicles until the police arrive, unless they are causing a safety hazard.
• Monitor your gas gauge closely and fill up when the tank reaches a quarter, especially when travelling through areas where stations may be 30+ km apart.

Renting a Scooter/Quad

Many tourists rent scooters or ATVs, especially in resort areas. Note that Greek law requires an appropriate motorcycle licence for scooters above 50cc and an IDP for non-EU licences. Many rental places will rent 125cc scooters to foreigners without a bike licence... it's a grey area. However, your travel insurance might not cover accidents if you are not properly licensed.

Quads (ATVs) are common in places like Malia and Hersonissos. They are easy to drive but can be unstable if you speed or turn too quickly. Wear a helmet and drive carefully, as these vehicles often cause tourist injuries every summer.

Frankly, a car is safer and not much more costly if you split the expense with others. Scooters are fun for short local trips though (like hopping between beaches along a coast). If you rent a scooter, avoid highways – a 50cc scooter cannot safely go above approximately 50 km/h, which is dangerous on 90 km/h roads. Stick to local roads, for example when exploring a peninsula or coastline at a leisurely pace.

In Case of Breakdown

Most rental cars are quite new and unlikely to break down. However, if it happens, call your rental company – they typically have a roadside assistance arrangement and you might get a replacement vehicle delivered. Locals are helpful; if you end up with a flat tyre in a village, a nearby kafenion owner might lend a hand or direct you to the local vulcaniser (tyre repair shop). It is wise to check that the spare tyre and tools are in the boot at rental pick-up, just in case.

By being informed and driving prudently, you can have a fantastic time road-tripping in Crete. You will be able to reach off-the-beaten-track locations that buses don't visit, stop at will for photos of breathtaking panoramas, and travel on your own schedule. The freedom is tremendous – just remember that with freedom comes the responsibility to drive safely and respectfully.

So buckle up, take it slow around those bends, yield to that herd of goats, and enjoy the journey as much as the destinations. Kalá taxídia me to aftokínito – happy travels by car!